Good news for lovers of authentic Thai cuisine: you no longer have to cross the Mississippi to find authentic Thai cuisine. The owners of Bangkok Thai Deli, 315 University Ave. W., St. Paul, which has become a pilgrimage site for lovers of authentic Thai Cuisine, have opened a new outpost, Krungthep Thai, at 2523 Nicollet Ave., in the former Seafood Palace location. (in case you are curious, Krungthep is the Thai name for the capitol city of Bangkok. Actually, the full name, according to Wikipedia, is Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahintharayutthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Phiman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit.)
Much of the credit for this successful adaptation goes to Supenn Harrison, owner of Sawatdee, which now has six locations in Minnesota. From Sawatdee’s kitchens have come forth a generation of cooks who have gone on to open their own restaurants. Many Minnesotans, it is safe to say, got their first taste of Thai at a Sawatdee restaurant, and it wasn’t so foreign that it turned them away from exploring this new world of flavors.
Krungthep Thai doesn’t quite have the funky charm of the original Bangkok Thai, which is tucked away in the back of an Asian grocery store, and has Thai music videos playing endlessly on a TV monitor. The new place, which inherited its decor from the Seafood Palace, looks almost elegant by comparison, and as soon as the wine and beer license arrives (application pending) it will be a suitable place for a date, or at least a cheap date.
And Krungthep Thai offers an expanded list of seafood specials not available at Bangkok Thai, designed to attract the Seafood Palace clientele. The precise offerings seem to vary a bit from day to day, but on recent visits they have included walleye, sea bass, pompano, live lobster, snow crab and clams. You can have these prepared in a variety of ways, but on our first visit we ordered the tilapia with fresh chili sauce, which arrived at the table deep-fried, head-on, and topped with a spicy savory sauce of red and green peppers, lemongrass and cilantro. We liked it so much that on a return visit, we ordered the whole pompano ($12.95) prepared the same way.
Other favorites included the pad see-aew, flat rice noodles stir-fried with Chinese broccoli, egg, carrot, and a wide choice of protein ($8-$10), the papaya salad with tomato and peanuts ($7) the seafood pad prik khing with red curry paste ($10) and the tom kha, a close cousin of tom yum made with coconut milk, straw mushrooms, lime juice, kaffir lime leaf, Thai green chili, lemongrass and coriander ($10).
Be sure to save room for the sticky rice with mango, simple and sweet and rich with coconut milk.
There are a lot of other dishes on the menu that I would like to try, ranging from the stir-fried shrimp with egg ($12) to the stir-fried Chinese eggplant with shrimp and pork ($12).
We’ll be back.
Krungthep Thai Cuisine, 2523 Nicollet Ave., 612-824-7721. Open seven days a week.
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