Fans of Hector Ruiz will be happy to learn that the entrepreneurial Paris-trained chef has just opened a fifth restaurant, Costa Blanca Bistro, in the former Pico de Gallo location at 2416 Central Ave. NE. The new restaurant and bar joins the burgeoning Ruiz restaurant empire, which also includes Cafe Ena, Rincon 38, La Fresca and La Ceiba.

Like all of his restaurants, Costa Blanca Bistro’s cuisine combines Latin flavors with French technique, but the strongest resemblance is to his tapas restaurant at 38th and Grand, Rincon 38., which offers a very similar menu of small plates, with similar names and descriptions. Nearly all of Costa Blanca’s small plates are priced at $8, $10 or $12, and are more generously portioned than the traditional Spanish bar snacks.

I have only sampled a few dishes, but so far I am impressed: highlights have included the hongos – sliced roasted king oyster mushroomsserved over a bed of spinach with a citrus aioli ($8); the mussels in a shallots, garlic, lime and chipotle broth, with toast and a cup of dippable (or sippable ) broth on the side ($10), and the squid ink pasta with shrimp and brussels sprouts. Other intriguing offerings include the ceviche of red snapper with yellow tomatoes, red onion, cilantro, jalapeño, ancho oil and lime juice ($12), and the paella marinera of saffron rice with mussels, scallops, calamari and shrimp ($16).

Full bar coming soon

One new feature of Costa Blanca is that Costa Blanca has a full liquor license; for the moment, only wine and beer are served, but liquor and cocktails are coming soon.

Author: Jeremy Iggers

Jeremy Iggers is a journalist, university instructor and social entrepreneur with interests that include food, philosophy and global-local connections. Previously, he was a staff writer for the Minneapolis Star Tribune and publisher of the Twin Cities Daily Planet. He lives in south Minneapolis with his wife Carol and two cats.